Mesh count is the number of threads per inch in a screen. Lower counts have bigger openings that let more ink through; higher counts hold finer detail and lay down a thinner layer. Picking the mesh is picking a trade-off between ink deposit and detail.
Common starting points
- Around 110: heavy deposits. Underbases on dark garments, glitter and shimmer, puff, athletic numbers.
- Around 156 to 160: the everyday plastisol mesh for spot colors and general prints.
- Around 200 to 230: finer detail, thinner layers, and water-based ink, which prints well through higher counts.
- Around 305 and up: halftones and four-color process, where small dots need support.
These are starting points, not rules. Thread thickness, tension and emulsion thickness change the deposit too, so two screens with the same count can print differently.
Thread thickness and tension
Mesh comes in different thread diameters at the same count. Thinner thread leaves bigger openings and lays down more ink. Tension matters as much as count: a tight screen releases ink cleanly and holds registration, while a loose one smears detail and drifts on multi-color jobs.
Keeping track of your screens
Once a shop has a rack of screens at different counts, knowing what's coated, what's free and what's tied up on a job saves time at the press. InkTracker tracks screens by mesh count and whether they're coated, so pre-press can see what's available before a job is scheduled.
Common questions
- What mesh count is best for screen printing t-shirts?
- For most plastisol spot-color prints, around 156 to 160 is the usual starting point. Use a lower count like 110 for underbases and heavy inks, and higher counts for fine detail and halftones.
- What mesh should I use for water-based ink?
- Usually a higher count than plastisol, often around 200 to 230, because water-based ink is thinner and the higher count controls the deposit.
- What mesh count for an underbase?
- A lower count, often around 110, so enough white goes down to make the colors on top bright.